And We Are Off, Temples 1 - 7

After a filling breakfast at Otori-en, the Pilgrimage finally started. In actuality, the previous day I visited Temple 1 Ryozen-ji since I arrived before they closed. I had the entire day to walk from Temple 1 to Temple 7 Juraku-ji, then return to Temple 6 Anraku-ji where I would be staying in the Temple Shukubo, or lodgings. This would be a walk over 14 miles, though most of it was flat and on roadways.

The day was filled with looking for the Pilgrimage markers, of which there were a bewildering number of types, many in Japanese. These markers assured you that you were on the Trail and provided directions at intersections. I also had the Henro Helper app which used GPS to mark your location on the Trail, but I tried to rely on the markers and only used the app when I was confused.

The other concern was performing the respectful rituals at the Temples. I had decided that I would do the following:

Bow when entering and leaving the Main Gate,

Cleanse myself at the washing station,

Show my respect at the Hondo (Main Hall) by lighting incense and a candle, then make an offering and prayer,

Repeat at the Daishido (Hall dedicated, in this case, Kobo Daishi).

After completing the rituals, I would then get the temple stamp, or nokyo, to document my visit.

The walk was uneventful and became more scenic and enjoyable as I progressed west to the rural part of Tokushima City. On my way to Temple 4 Dainichi-ji, I took a break at a rest stop providing a seat and refreshments. I belong to a Facebook group dedicated to the Shikoku Pilgrimage, and I believe the person I was talking with was one of the group moderators. This site is an incredibly valuable resource for the Pilgrimage (https://www.facebook.com/groups/999427673485587), providing information, current updates and a lot of advice.

Mt Bizan, Then the Start of the Tour

From my hotel window I could see the ropeway to Bizan Park. This would be the last stop for today's sakura viewing. First, I would take a train to the western end of Mt Bizan and walk to Seibu Park.

There were a number of locals walking to and from Seibu Park and Bizan Park. It is a scenic walk with a gradual uphill climb, so a good workout. With every walker there was the cheery exchange of "ohayo gozaimasu".

After Seibu Park, it was about an hour of uphill walking to reach Bizan Park, a large complex including some interesting buildings, a wraparound view of Tokushima City, and a ropeway back down to the city center.

I retrieved my backpack from my hotel, then took a train to Bando Station. There is a green line on the road from the station marking the route to the first Temple of the Pilgrimage, Ryozen-ji. Following this line is the first taste of the Pilgrimage for many henros. The first tour accommodation, Otori-en, was located next door to Ryozen-ji, and the temple grounds were visible from my window.

Ferry to Tokushima

One of the reasons for visiting Wakayama City before my Pilgrimage was the easy access to Tokushima City using a Nankai Ferry. While the ride took over 2 hours to complete, this was a much more relaxed and enjoyable experience, as opposed to the stress of taking multiple buses and/or trains to Tokushima City.

It was a three mile walk from Wakayama Station to get to the ferry port and it was overcast with a constant drizzle that day. My route passed Wakayama Castle so I was able to view it during the daytime and see the Sakura ringing the perimeter.

One unexpected thing I discovered after I boarded was that there were very few seats available, and I believe these were reserved. Most of the passengers stretched out on carpeted floors in the main cabin area. I had previously taken a similar ferry boat in Washington State and, of course, everyone sat on seats.

It was another 3 mile walk from the Tokushima Ferry port to my hotel at Tokushima Station.